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Vietnam
"The Tonkinese Alps"

Although many Westerners still view Vietnam through the lens of war, it is a country filled with captivating natural beauty and village life. Its islands and beaches are among the finest in all of Southeast Asia, the rugged Northern part of the country is home to colorful hilltribe people and the food is terrific everywhere. Over two decades have passed since Vietnam was officially united, and in that time its wounds have healed. Today, this gracious and graceful country is an outstanding travel destination.

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Our tour makes a loop through the area Northwest of Hanoi. After a free day to explore Hanoi, we transfer via van to start our bike ride Southwest of Hanoi in Mai Chau. From there, we head north into increasingly mountainous territory which has it's climax with the gigantic climb over the 2,000 meter Tram Ton pass in what the French called "The Tonkinese Alps".

 

Day 1 & 2 - Hanoi

Fly to Hanoi and spend the next day exploring what some call the "Paris of Southeast Asia". Hanoi is a virtual human beehive of activity. We stay in the Old Quarter which is fascinating labyrinth of streets named after the businesses on them: weaving, forging, jewelry-making, shoe making, silver-making and dozens of others. We stay very close to the water puppet Theatre on Ho Kiem Lake.

There are numerous things to do and see: take in the puppet show, visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Hanoi Opera House, the Ethnic Museum or just kick back, relax and enjoy one of Hanoi's many "Bia Hoi"or "fresh beer" establishments and watch the river of scooters flow by.

Day 3 - Transfer to Mai Chau

We transfer Southwest to Hoa Binh Province and the town of Mai Chau, home of the White Thai. We have a "homestay" in traditional style buildings. However, they all have western style bathrooms/hot showers, so it doesn't really qualify as roughing it. You will get a taste of village life if not the experience of bathing in cold water.

Day 4 - Mai Chau to Yen Chau - 120k

We head North to Yen Chau and pass many minority villages as we generally ascend. The ride today, starts relatively flat, but we climb up and over into a valley with some great views. A good way to start the tour.

Day 5 - Yen Chau to Son La - 67k

Virtually every town we go through has an active market. Everything is brought in fresh daily. The larger markets serve as distribution points for smaller markets and, if you are there early enough, you will see things being scootered off to other market. Son La has a history. The French built a prison in Son La, it was partially destroyed during the Vietnam War but there is now a museum and what remains is interesting. Dissident Vietnamese were often transferred between french built Hoa Loa prison in Hanoi (aka "TheHanoi Hilton") and Son La Prison.

 

Day 6 - Son La to Tuan Giao- 86k

Today's ride begins with an easy 5k climb through every present rice paddies. At the 60k mark there is a good 14k climb and then 7k of ups and downs along a ridge followed by a 11k descent into Tuan Giao. This area is home to the Black Thai minority which originated in China.

Day 7 - Tuan Giao to Lai Chau- 75k

We take the "wild and rocky" back road to Lai Chau. We start on smooth pavement, but about 30k into it we take a back road that includes a huge climb and then a spectacular descent into Lai Chau. Not too many people go this way. The locals will notice you as much as you notice them.

Lai Chau is deep in a valley and, while located in the North of Vietnam, it has a micro-climate which makes it the warmest spot in the country. It won't be for long though. A dam is being built and within a few years the entire valley will be underwater. The "wild road ride" from Lai Chau is destined to be only a memory for the few remaining outsiders that pass this way. The locals will be paid to relocate.

Day 8 - Lai Chao to Tam Duong 105k

Today we have a longer ride. We follow the Na River and pass through many minority villages. At the end there is 15k climb followed by somewhat shorter descent in into Tam Duong.

One should resist the temptation to buy a personal article of clothing worn by a minority villager no matter how beautiful it may be, but these hats were made specifically for sale to tourists in town . It's a good way to bring home some memories.

Day 9 - Tam Duong to Sapa 73k

Today is a big climbing day. We follow a riverbed before heading up and over Tram Ton pass, the highest pass in Vietnam at 2000 meters. The climb is long at 28k, but it is not especially steep. We also cycle past impressive Mt. Fansipan, the highest mountain in Vietnam at 3100 meters. There is a 15k descent, passing the 100m high "Silver Waterfall", down to Sapa.

Day 10 - Rest Day Sapa

Sapa is the pre-eminent destination in Northern Vietnam. It was established by the French as a hill station. Why they picked this spot no one knows. It sits at 1600 meters and while it often is shrouded in mist, on a clear day it offers sublime views of the surrounding mountains. In close proximity to Sapa are many hilltribe people who come to the Sapa market. We spend a rest day in Sapa to soak it all in.

Day 11 Sapa to Lao Cai and Hanoi - 36k

From Sapa we head to Lao Cai hard against the Chinese border where a deluxe sleeper train awaits for the overnite trip back to Hanoi. We arrive in Hanoi in the morning so we have a day and a night there to do some more exploring.

Day 12 Overnite in Hanoi

Opportunities abound to independently extend your trip. Options include visiting the UNESCO World Heritage site of Halong Bay, which can be done in a day, or taking the short flight to Danang where you can visit the interesting town of Hoi An as well as the ruins of My Son (the center of the ancient Champa civilization), Marble Mountain, or China Beach. Or fly further south to Ho Chi Minh City.

RT airfare to Danang from Hanoi is about $115. A day trip to Halong Bay is $25 or so. We will be happy to hook you up with some suggestions on how to extend your trip.

 

Included:
12 nites accommodations at guesthouses/hotels. We have one homestay planned.
Lunch and dinners (except in Hanoi and Sapa)
Breakfasts
Transport of baggage
Sag Vehicle/Driver
Transfer to Mai Chau
Deluxe sleeper train from Lao Cai to Hanoi
English Speaking Vietnamese Guide


Excluded:
Airfares to/from Hanoi
Visa - $50
Beer, wine booze
Lunch and dinner in Hanoi and Sapa
Immunizations from your doctor or travel clinic
Airport transfers in Hanoi